05/10/2023
The Chota Char (4) Dham - Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath & Badrinath is an important pilgrimage circuit in the Uttarakhand- Himalayas.
This year, on our siblings trip, my siblings & I covered 3 of these locations, Gangotri, Kedarnath, Badrinath. We started with a challenging trek at Gangotri-Gaumukh-Tapovan to the source of the holy Ganga (Ganges river) followed by the rest of the locations and ending with Rishikesh, over 10 days this September.
Sharing some notes, pictures, take aways from the trip as well as contacts of some genuinely helpful people that might be handy if anyone reading this decide to go for this trip or is somewhere here.
The Journey to the source of the Ganga Gangotri-Gaumukh-Tapovan (Day1-3)
This was a mystical and spiritual trek of about 28 Km (moderate to challenging) that took us to the Gangotri glacier and the site that’s believed to be the mouth or source of sacred Ganga(Amara Ganga). Our trek group comprised of 7 people including the 3 of us and our Guruji who is himself a saint from Gangotri.
Day 1: Gangotri- Bhojbasa:
We covered 14kms and stayed overnight at Bhojbasa with a lunch-lassi break at Chirbasa from where the route gets adventurous passing through a couple of rock-fall zones. The ascent is gradual and the trek, moderate.
I had terrible elevation sickness when we started due to insufficient time perhaps for acclimatizing. I couldn’t retain anything that I ate or drank. I convinced myself thinking Ganga Maa wants me to do fasting, purify before taking a dip in her😊
I could literally feel God’s helping hand came through our compassionate guide & porter Tulsi bhaiya. He kept boosting my mental strength saying various stories and experiences, literally making me me believe that I will easily manage to the top. In fact unlike what we normally do to look up to see how much to go, he would urge me too look down and see how far we had already traversed.
When mind believes, the body follows. I am eternally grateful to him for his empathy & support. One of the best guide I have seen so far. Sharing his contact here. Please feel free to contact him, if you are going to Gangotri, & if you need a genuine guide. Tulsi Bhaiya’s contact: +91 94107 54017
That night I had 1/2 diamax pill, in the morning I felt much better:)
Day 2: Bhojbasa-Gaumukh-Tapovan
We started the day early, crossed over the Ganga on a self help trolley huge thanks to the string male volunteers) and then started our trek towards Gaumukh.
The 4-km trek to Gaumukh (at an altitude of 4,000 m), is very interesting; you will cross unnamed streams, hop across boulders and you will be constantly accompanied by jaw-dropping views of snow-clad mountains.
From Gaumukh, start the 5-km trek to Tapovan (at a height of 4,460 m), one of the finest high altitude alpine meadows in the region. The trek is a steep ascent with clear views of the surrounding peaks. The last kilometre is a near vertical climb to reach the top and involves crossing the Akash Ganga stream. It is truly a challenging climb.
We reached Tapovan early evening.
The word ‘Tapovan’ means a sacred place, where the sages meditate for spiritual bliss. According to Hindu mythology, King Bhagiratha (Lord Rama’s ancestor) of the Ikshvaku dynasty, meditated here to Shiva for Ganga’s descent to the earth. From time unknown, Hindu sadhus or spiritualists come here to pay tribute to Lord Shiva and River ‘Ganga Maa.
Tapovan is surrounded by Mount Shivling (the source of Amara Ganga) Mount Meru , & group of Bhagirathi peaks. Everywhere there is only divine natural beauty and silence. No wonder, it is a living, meditation, contemplation place for some monks/saints.
We stayed overnight at Tapovan. A Swamiji here (Swami Nagardasji) lovingly provided us food and an empty kutir(small stone home) to stay overnight.
I was totally amazed at the seva bhav of the ever smiling Nagardas Swami Ji. Even in harshest of winter, most of the saints stay over there, strengthening their sadana and tapa. Their simplicity, blissfulness, contentment, confidence says so much about the life they lead.
That night after a sumptuous dinner we were excited to watch the night sky shining with so many beautiful stars in the backdrop of the Shivling mountain. The entire experience still feels like a dream.
Day 3: Tapovan to Gangotri return
On the return trek, we chose to cover the full distance in one day. After spending a blissful night at Tapovan, I fully regained my energy trekked down happily.
On the way, we took a dip in ice cold Ganga Maa at Gaumukh, with the intention of dissolving all the ignorance away since she is known as the river of wisdom.
Trekking in Himalayas, the magnificent energy of mountain & the river makes our mind automatically dissolve into nothingness, then we feel the true connection with the divine.
Day 4: Gangotri
We spent the day at Gangotri starting with a “tharpanam” prayers for our ancestors on the banks of Ganga. Then we visited thr Surya kund and Pandav Gufa also meeting a Bhakti yogi (left his corporate life & stayed in this gufa for more than 15 years) who shared some of his enlightening experiences.
We also visited ‘Tapovan Maharaj Museum, the beautiful Ganga Maa temple and met several saints and swamis at the pandara (anna-dhan) arranged by our colleagues from the group.
The day well ended with the scrumptious meal, with special Himalayan ‘ghucchi mushrooms’ for us, arranged by our Guru Ji, thus filling both our mind and body 😊
The remaining journey … in the following week/ weeks…
