03/11/2026
A few claims in the The Wall Street Journal interview with Barbara Sturm need some clarification from an evidence-based dermatology perspective.
• Retinoids do not “thin” the skin.
They actually increase dermal collagen and normalize epidermal turnover — which is why they are one of the most studied anti-aging treatments in dermatology.
• Retinoids do not “strip your microbiome.”
There is no strong evidence showing topical retinoids damage the skin microbiome.
• Avoid daylight if you use retinol?
Also not true. Retinoids are typically used at night because they’re light-sensitive, not because daytime exposure is unsafe.
• Sunscreen isn’t optional.
Decades of dermatology research show daily sunscreen helps prevent skin cancer, photoaging, and hyperpigmentation.
Skincare marketing often relies on fear of “inflammation.”
But in medicine, retinoids are one of the most evidence-based topical treatments we have.