06/07/2016
ISRAEL TRIP - DAY 15
We left the Dead Sea spa and stopped at En Gedi, a desert oasis with many beautiful Ibex (or is it Ibexes?) as well as more hyrax (see photo), those rodent-looking fuzzy guys that Shimon and Wikipedia say are most closely related to elephants ... No idea how. Walked up a path until we got to the lower waterfall. Many people were hiking on to the upper falls but we had neither the time nor strength for the group to do that. Shimon pointed out fossils in the rocks, meaning this area was once under water, several million years ago.
We next stopped at an Ancient Synagogue, with beautiful mosaic floors that were excavated. They still hold Bar Mitzvahs there. He also showed us a beautiful tree with green Apple-looking fruit, and warned us not to touch them. He broke one open and showed us the interior "milk" seeping out. This is the hemlock tree ... Afterward he went to wash hands,
At a roadside stop, I finally got a chance to do something I'd been hankering for ... photo below.
Then we took a very narrow, rough road, like a construction or maintenance road (cheers to our awesome driver, Osama) to a well-hidden memorial to September 11. The center has a piece of metal from the twin towers, and it is surrounded by all the names of victims, alphabetical and raised letters, so visitors can do rubbings. It was completed in 2009 but they ran out of money for the road, so for now, it is a little-known treasure.
Onward to a surprise lunch (well, the meal was no surprise -- I've had more falafel and shawarma and hummus the past 2 weeks than the past two years, or maybe decades!). The surprise was this place, a hole-in-the-wall restaurant/liquor store with a machine making tahini. We got to watch the sesame seeds being ground and the thick textured stream dripping into a vat. Held tiny spoons under the drip to catch a drop of something that tasted a lot like almond or peanut butter. Then the owner did a demo, how to make tahini by adding ingredients and mixing literally by hand to the proper consistency. We ended up with another taste, a copy of the recipe in English (as well as one for hummus), and we we each given a jar of the product to take home, in checked luggage and well-wrapped in plastic and clothing ...
We returned to Tel Aviv for one last night in the same hotel where we started. Had to repackage and reorganize, and then, even tho I was very tired, I went out for a short walk down to an enormous mall ... Four floors with ramps from one level to the next, in two huge buildings on opposite sides of the street connected by an interior bridge. There are several entrances, each numbered, and each with a security line waiting to have bags checked and sometimes bodies wanded before entry. It was similar in many ways to American malls, filled with groups of tweens and families with young children and older people ... Different products in some stores, and different food stands. In one section, there were several tattoo places. I was looking for a shirt and finally found one, so I could wear something clean for our farewell dinner.
After another very filling happy hour on the outdoor 4th floor patio with live musicians, we gathered for one last trip with Osama, who took us to an area that was once very poor and dilapidated but now modernized, with lots of shops and many dozens of people out walking or riding bikes or motorcycles or even cars through the narrow streets, too narrow for the bus, so we walked several blocks to the restaurant. It was Thursday, a popular wedding day in Israel, and we saw two different couples in wedding attire, walking along the streets. We had another huge meal at an outdoor restaurant and finally walked back to the area where a minivan was supposed to pick us up.
And then we had the first glitch in all our adventures -- turns out not only was Elton John performing not far away, but also there was a huge annual food and music festival on the Mediterranean. The roads were packed solid, and many were closed off, so the driver was delayed by almost an hour, while we stood on the side of the road. When we finally hooked up with him, we had the same traffic jam getting out of the area. (Meanwhile, Osama was stuck in a different jam on the way back to Jerusalem, because of some fires that we had seen starting off the road earlier in the day.) I guess it was a reminder of our upcoming return to LA traffic ...