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Faxia, tyewry wwert 45, Los Angeles, CA (2026)

07/22/2021

A Beginner’s Guide to Surfing

Iwon’t sugarcoat it: most surfers don’t want you to pick up their sport. Surfers can be territorial, aggressive jerks—especially to newbies. Though I’m not excusing that behavior, the instinct is partly for good reason: a beginner wielding a sharp surfboard they can’t control in waves they don’t understand puts everyone in danger. And unlike many other outdoor pursuits, the resources (waves) are limited. Every wave you catch is one less wave for me.

But there is a right way to partake as a beginner, all while staying safe and not pi***ng people off. It involves surfing in the right places for your ability level, choosing the proper equipment, being respectful of locals, and knowing the rules of the water. Let’s start with the essentials.

07/22/2021

When encountering an onrushing whitewater wave, try to go straight into it. As perpendicular as possible, the more off angle the wave hits you the more ground you will lose. If you are able to not lose all of your momentum, you will be able to get going again right away. If you do get hit hard and spin out you will be starting off from scratch again and you will be making very little progress. Once again its not how fast you can paddle, its how well you deal with the onrushing and powerful bands of energy coming at you.

Walk out as far as possible, jumping over the waves while holding on tight to your board. Once you are out to chest deep wait for a calm period, or a lull before you start your paddle out. Be certain to position your body properly and begin stroking out. Until you encounter the bigger waves stay prone on your board and when you come to a small whitewater wave simply lift your upper body up by grabbing the rails of your surfboard at the ribcage and lift your head and shoulders above the white stuff. As your body lifts above the energy you will be sending your board underneath the energy. This method works just fine until you can no longer go over them anymore.

Bigger waves will also be more powerful and all of that energy is up on the surface where you are so you have to go under to get out. How far down you can go depends on how much foam you are on and how strong you are. But here is the trick, just before the wave is going to slam you, you must pull yourself forward to the front of the board, grab the nose tightly with both hands and send the nose down as deep as you can. At the same time wrap your legs around the middle of the board and hang on tight, expect to be dragged under water for a couple of seconds.

When you surface scoot back into paddling position and get moving unless more waves are going to break in front of you. If they are the best thing to do is to get off of your surfboard and hold on to the nose while the set does its thing. By getting off of your board you will not lose as much ground and you will be better rested for your next assault through the raging surf.

If you find that the waves are more powerful than you thought and you are not in total control of your surfboard then you should not try to go all of the way out! Stay inside and work on your skills and get stronger for the next swell.

It will take years of practice before you will be able to paddle out and surf BIG waves anyway but by improving your paddling skills your surfing will be far more enjoyable and worthwhile.

07/22/2021

Standing Up
Keeping your surfboard flat underneath you while you surf can only be accomplished after you understand how to keep your weight centered in the middle of the board. Here are a few tips on how to get it done.

When you surf, you must stand sideways on the surfboard. With either the right foot near the back, which is called "regularfoot", or with the left foot towards the back, which is called "goofyfoot". Neither way is better than the other, but you will be better one way or the other. If you skateboard or snowboard you should surf the same way. It is the upper part of your body that needs to be most centered. It is critical to keep your hips centered over your feet and legs shoulder width apart. Then you can use weight shifts by applying more weight to one foot or the other to keep the board flat. The flatter the board stays the farther you will go on the wave.

07/22/2021

Walk out holding on to your surfboard near the nose, with most of the board training behind you. The less board that sticks out in front of you the better. Try to always keep your board pointed straight out as you head out, or straight in as you get ready to go on the wave. Avoid letting your surfboard swing around sideways or the next onrushing wave may return your board into you in an unfriendly manner. Whenever possible, lift your board higher than the oncoming wave as you walk out or you will be losing more ground as you go. Walk out just past your waist and then see if you have enough time to turn your board around. If so, lift your board in the middle using two hands and point it straight toward the beach.

The only three things that matter in catching the whitewater are... the board and the wave must be perpendicular to one another, the body must be centered properly on the board, and the board must be already moving into the beach when the wave hits you. So, as your wave approaches you, line up the board so it is pointed straight towards the beach, and when the wave is about 10 yards away, jump onto your board and begin to paddle. As you go you must keep your board perpendicular and flat. Too much angle to the beach will cause the board to flip over. You must also have your body centered correctly. If the wave hits you and you are too far forward on your surfboard, you will pearl or nosedive. Too far back on the board and you won't catch the wave. Now that you are perpendicular and centered, its time to start paddling.

You will need 7 or 8 strokes to get up enough speed to catch the wave. As the whitewater wave rushes onto the back of the board, stop paddling and hold on tight to the rails at chest level. As the wave hits you hold tight. You will then feel the wave pick you up and propel you in front of it. Now is when you want to pop up, landing in the middle of the board.

07/22/2021

Paddling
One of the keys to good surfing is learning how to correctly paddle the surfboard. A good paddler catches plenty of waves while poor paddlers spend most of their time and energy missing them. So, here are a few tips on how to get the most out of your surfing by developing your paddling skills.

The beginner frequently has difficulty paddling because of poor body positioning on the board. If you are too far back on the board it will tilt up in the front and you will be pushing water, this will slow you down. If you are too far forward on your surfboard then the nose will sink or pearl, another bummer. Remember, your surfboard is balanced correctly and under control when the nose is one or two inches out of the water. The flatter the board is on the surface of the water the better it will glide.

07/22/2021

Surf Gear Info
Wetsuit – If you’re planning on surfing in the UK during the summer or winter then a wetsuit is going to be needed to maintain any sense of feeling in your extremities. Get down your local watersports retailer and get the guys in the know to fit you up as the correct sizing of a wettie is crucial to its function. If you already know what make and sizing you want then use one of our featured online stores to get yourself kitted out and pick up some hot deals.

Leash – A leash or leg rope is basically a long lead that attaches from your ankle to the back of the board to prevent you from being separated. They are at least as long as the length of the board so that if you wipeout it’ll be out of the way by the time you surface but close enough for you to hope back on quickly before the next wave comes.

07/22/2021

Top Surf Tips

A short history lesson today guys. Surfing can be dated back to before Captain Cook’s discovery of the ancient Hawaiian kings riding on the crest of a wave back in the eighteenth century and yes much has changed in the sport since then. Through out the past 300 years, one thing that remains the same is the uncontrollable, throw your hands in the air and scream to the gods feeling you get when you stand up on your first wave.

How you explain it I'm not sure, and even if I did it wouldn't do it justice. Picking the right wave, paddling like a madman or woman, feeling the wave begin to propel you forward and take control and then you pop to your feet. For a split second you think you’re in control but then you realise the ocean is fighting to throw you in the dunk. Experiencing it firsthand is the only way you can really understand what I’m talking about so get some gear and get wet.

Faxia

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