28/12/2025
America is eating meat again? I don't see it. I see grocers laden with ultra processed carbs and dairy substitutes. But maybe that's just California?
For more than a decade, cutting down on meat and other animal products has been idealized as a healthier, more ethical way to eat. Now the appeal is fading, Yasmin Tayag writes. (From March) https://theatln.tc/zLhEjq3r
The Obama administration passed a law to limit meat in school lunches, and meat alternatives such as Impossible Burger flooded grocery-store shelves. It all heralded a more plant-based future. But a convergence of cultural and nutritional shifts, “supercharged by the return of the noted hamburger-lover President Donald Trump, has thrust meat back to the center of the American plate,” Tayag writes. “It’s not just MAGA bros and MAHA moms who resist plant-based eating. A wide swath of the U.S. seems to be sending a clear message: Nobody should feel bad about eating meat.”
America has become obsessed with consuming more protein, a fad boosted by the growing numbers of people on GLP-1 drugs seeking out protein-rich diets and the free fall of plant-based meat’s popularity due to concerns about its cost, taste, and healthfulness. Yet “the embrace of meat isn’t just about food, but also about what meat represents: tradition, strength, dominance, muscles—values championed by the right,” Tayag writes.
“Conservatives have long sought to turn meat into a front in the culture wars,” she continues. “Trump’s reelection has bolstered the cause.” Some of the most vocal support for the meat-forward lifestyle emanates from the “manosphere,” a right-leaning internet subculture best known for men promoting different ways to become manlier that is popular among the young men who voted for Trump.
All of this is happening amid confusion about what it even means to eat well. The medical and scientific community still agree: Reducing consumption of red and processed meats is better for human and planetary health. “But as pro-meat figures such as [Robert F. Kennedy Jr.] and Trump challenge those views—not to mention the institutions that support them—the problems with meat-eating no longer seem as clear-cut,” Tayag continues.
🎨: Paul Spella / The Atlantic. Source: Getty.