31/10/2025
A mate sent this through this morning... and yes Gerry, those were the days, out in front of a nasty cliff with a board eating cave.
Lopez and I were paddling out in a close-out NW Swell at Waimea, for a Smirnoff heat. Lopez shouts "if Hackman yells Mother, we paddle in"! We lost. Couple of hours later we were on our way to Maui, thankfully!
Driving out of Kahului, we hear on the radio Reno has saved a couple of swabbies swimming in the Waimea shorebreak while heading out in the Final, which he won. We had to settle for H'Bay with not too many out (everybody was over on the North Shore).
Many thanks to
for his pic, a reminder of another time.
Shout-out to you Erik, your images of that swell are way close to my heart. Smiling!
