19/09/2025
Capri and the Arco Naturale
I’d already taken the plane, train, bus, and scooter — only the boat was left to try. So I caught the first ferry to Capri Island to avoid as many crowds as possible. Best decision ever.
My main mission was to hike up to the Arco Naturale, a limestone arch formed from the remains of a Palaeolithic cave. There were endless stairs and steep inclines to get there, but it was so worth it. I had it all to myself for a while and got to just stand and stare at this wonder without interruptions. I explored every corner around it, and eventually a nice French solo traveler came along. I asked her to take some photos, but I think she regretted saying yes — she just couldn’t get the angle I wanted. In the end I offered to take one of her (which turned out great!) and then carried on my way.
On the way back, I detoured down another set of steps. After more climbing and descending, I came across the Grotta di Matermania, a huge natural cave with Roman wall remains. It was apparently used as a Nymphaeum, a monument dedicated to nymphs.
I unknowingly took a different path back, which turned out to be a little alarming — all uphill and endless steps. When I realized I wasn’t on the same path I’d come on, the thought of turning back had me resigned to the idea of sleeping in the cave.
Capri itself was lovely, with the tiniest little roads. The garbage truck even had just three wheels! It was super busy, and when I finally got back to the port I heard a familiar Trini accent asking someone to take her picture with some fruit. Of course, I stepped in and did the honors.
I skipped the boat tours to the grottos since I’d heard they were crowded, and I was happy with my choice.
Back on the ferry and home in time for lunch.