26/01/2023
Every surfer knows that waves come in sets.
3...4...5...6...
You've just got to be patient & wait for that set out back until it rolls on through.
When you pick your wave, you've got to start paddling, doing the work & fully committing to it before it picks you up & carries you away. Once it does, then can you enjoy the ride.
When the ride dies, the surfer turns their board around & paddles back out again.
Inexperienced surfers tend to paddle right into the whitewash & get pushed, pulled & smashed around; putting so much energy & effort in, yet barely moving forward.
But the more experienced or observant surfers tend to wait for the whitewash to pass or paddle around it, usually choosing the path of least resistance if possible.
A lot of factors come into play...
Experience - learning from your "mistakes" or better yet, learning on how & where to improve or do things better
Observation - paying close attention to your environment & your process
Patience - bidding your time rather than rushing
Timing - picking your moments. Knowing when to act & knowing when to rest
Instinct - trusting that gut instinct deep inside of you, for it's not instinct that causes injury but hesitation.
I think the same skillset can be applied to life - then at the very least one is less likely to drown in this wave called life.