20/05/2022
PhiloSurfy.
I think every surfer has some takes philosophical lessons from surfing that can apply to life. The riding of a wave, the paddle out, the changing conditions etc. This is part of why surfing becomes a way of life, not just a sport.
Adapting your surfing to what the wave does has been a big lesson for me personally the last 2 years, but I think also for the world with the massive changes in the wave of life that Covid has caused
2 years ago the wave ahead looked like it was walling up nicely and I was metaphorically doing a bottom turn to setup a reo off the top with more of the same down the line. But then out of the blue the wave changed, a big surge of backwash in the form of a health challenge nearly knocked me off my feet and the wave went fat and slow. I could have attempted to carry on the same maneuver (and if I was or I may have pulled it off)but as mere mortal it was no longer appropriate, and no longer staying true to the wave.
What was needed was a big cutback towards the power source of the wave. In real life this translated to a taking a break from physio and downsizing our house to simplify life and reduce stress. This also meant letting down a lot of clients (and followers) which was hard but I know as surfers they understand the change in the flow of life.
Mentally things changed as well. Whereas before I was interested in all sorts of info and science regarding biomechanics and breathing, I found myself reading fiction and ancient myths ( )drawing and creating art and learning the guitar. It felt as if I was cutting back to the source of life itself by accessing more of my creative side- something I had been neglecting in recent years. I would go to pick up my phone to post an exercise and find myself picking up the guitar instead.
I feel my own wave changing again, as it always does and new opportunities arising to express myself on the wave of life. You might find my posts being more focused on philoSurfy, life and art rather than physiotherapy and movement but I have the feeling things will shift back once the wave changes shape again. 🤙🏼🌊