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Gray Horse Leatherworks, Mint Hill, NC (2025)

11/14/2025

How does a running martingale affect the bit and bridle❓

A running martingale (also called a “training fork”) is an attachment anchored by the girth, with rings which the reins are run through.

When the upper limit is reached, and the horse’s mouth is higher than the rings, it will apply downward force on the bit, ‘encouraging’ the horse to lower its head. The main purpose of this training tool is to discourage head tossing/flipping or carrying the head too high that the horse could put themselves or the rider’s safety at risk - but there are other purposes, too!

When engaged, the working angle of the bit changes and more downward force is applied on the tongue/bars ⬇️. There is also a pulley-effect that occurs which enables the rider to apply more-than-perceived downward force on the horse’s mouth 😮.

Therefore, these should be used with great caution and adjusted so that at rest, the rings can be pulled upwards at least to the point of the withers ⏫️.
These should also ONLY be used with a snaffle as the use on a curb or gag will have harsh and undesirable effects 👎🏻 (I covered this more in my story series on Wednesday).

But a running martingale is not a terrible tool when used properly. Here’s a breakdown on the good and the bad…

PROS:
🔹Can help discourage head tossing/flipping
🔹Can promote straighter outline/head carriage for green horses
🔹 Can help reins stay in place in the event of a fall
🔹 Subtle “noise” created by the rings (when not engaged) can promote softness in the rider’s hands and heighten sense of awareness of rein tension.
🔹 Can help beginner riders - limiting over-opening of the reins, helps straighten horse

CONS:
🔸 “Noise” created by the rings can be bothersome for the horse and muddle pre-signal.
🔸 Pulley effect when engaged will amplify the downward forces on the mouth. Rider can easily lose sense of force applied vs. force perceived.
🔸 Tool becomes unfair to the horse if adjusted too low (that is, below the level of the withers)

Is your horse often evading the bit by head tossing / inverting? It may be a bit problem - reach out for a consultation 🙋🏼‍♀️ I am happy to help!

10/27/2025

HINT:

Look at the ears!

Does your bridle crown piece press into the back of your horse’s ears❓Is your bridle difficult to get over your horse’s ears❓Does your browband angle upwards❓

⚠️It may be because your browband is too tight⚠️

If your browband doesn’t hang loosely on your horse’s forehead, it may be too stiff or snug. It’s not your fault, though, most manufacturers make bridles with browbands that are far too small for most sizes.

The droopy thin dressage browbands are one fad I can get behind - as they are so much less likely to be tight on your horse.

A tight browband will do two things:
1️⃣ Rise upwards towards the base of the ears
2️⃣ Pull the crown piece forward, pressing against the back of the ears
3️⃣ Press against the temporalis (forehead) muscles

WHY IS THIS BAD?
🔺Can easily pinch the skin/hair at the base of the ear
🔺Can restrict the motion / full range of the ear
🔺Can increase pressure on highly sensitive poll and TMJ area.
🔺Will cause fatigue over time
🔺Associated pain can lead to behavioral issues

CORRECT FIT:
🔹 Positioned equidistant between the base of ear and TMJ.
🔹 Can fit your palm between the forehead and browband without any issue/resistance.
🔹 Material is not stiff.

Padding is unnecessary for browbands as they should NOT be applying any pressure. The purpose of the browband (and throatlatch) is for general security of the bridle, and should not be snug. A padded browband is often a stiff browband, and can make it possible to slide your hand between it and the horse’s forehead, but still be pulling the bridle forward.

When in doubt - size up❕

Questions? Comments? Drop a comment below 👇🏼 or contact me for a consultation 💻 I would love to help! 🙋🏼‍♀️

10/24/2025

SIDEPULL BRIDLE

This is the conceptually the most simple bitless bridle design. At first glance may look like a normal snaffle bridle, but the reins are connected to rings on either side of the Noseband, instead of a bit.

How does it work❔
Pulling on one rein manually turns the horse’s head. Pulling on both reins at once manually tucks the horse’s nose. While this is very straightforward, it can be quite limiting. However there are many that can train past the limitations and do amazing things in these!

How does it fit❔
The key component for any bitless bridle is a jowl strap (see my other post on this), which should be fit snug to provide stability for the bridle. The rest of the bridle should be fit as any other - still 2 fingers stacked between the nasal bone and the Noseband.

When/why try one❔
This may be a good option to try if you have:
▫️A horse with mouth/bitting problems
▫️A green horse you wish to train off all other aids before bitting
▫️A well-mannered horse whose mouth you wish to preserve on occasion
▫️Experience with bitless riding, or an instructor who does
▫️Time and willingness to properly train yourself and the horse to safely go bitless

This may be a poor choice to try if you have:
▪️A horse that is not respectful/responsive in a halter
▪️No responsiveness off other aids
▪️A horse that has issues at the poll or nerve damage anywhere on the head

In my experience these are great for very well-mannered and well-trained horses doing casual work. Without the “lift” effect of the snaffle, you may find it impossible to achieve a correct working frame in this if your horse is not capable of self-carriage. There is also no “give” to the setup as the interaction is primarily with the nasal bone, and some horses resent this. Therefore you don’t see them in competition much, and they aren’t allowed in many either.

BUT I still think they are a great bridle to have in your tack room and try out! My older pony, Whisper, happily goes in one every day with little kiddos 🥰

Curious if your horse will go well in one? Want to try one out? Reach out for a consultation! 🙋🏼‍♀️

10/19/2025

A reminder that my Etsy shop is open - and to place any orders before the holiday rush! 🎁

10/16/2025

The “What Do You Call It?” Gag Bit

There are many names for this type of bit (see second photo for common nomenclature) and come in 2.5, 3, and 4 ring varieties. This is classified as a gag bit and has similar mechanics to a traditional gag bit (see my previous post on the Cheltenham gag).

HOW DOES IT WORK?
Force from the reins leverage resistance from the poll which stretches the lips and bring the bit towards the molars.

WHAT IS THE PROBLEM?
1️⃣ Conflicting signals: poll pressure encourages the horse to lower its head 👇🏼 while stretching lips encourages the horse to lift the head 👆🏼. Over time the horse will become dull to either or resentful of both.
2️⃣ Lips are over-stretched which can (and often does) cause pigmentation loss, thickening, ulceration, and/or laceration at the lip commissures 🤕
3️⃣ After long-term/consistent use in one of these, the horse may be difficult to transition to a snaffle, as the “lift” effect of stretching the lips is dulled (either physically or psychologically - see above) 👄
4️⃣ The bit is pulled up in the mouth so far that it is forced against the molars 🦷. This is irritating to the horse (at best), especially for metal mouthpieces. For synthetic mouthpieces, they can easily become damaged this way ⛓️‍💥
5️⃣ The forward and downward rotation of the cheek pieces force the crown piece against the ears 👂. Not only is this terribly irritating to the horse, but enough force applied can pull the bridle completely off 😱
6️⃣ There is a disconnect in the feel of the mouth 🤝. This is why leverage and gag reins should NEVER be the primary when direct-reining. The reins can be pulled with such ease and little to no perception in how much force is being applied to the horse 💪🏻

It is 100% worth mentioning that I used to ride in one of these, before I knew better! I saw many jumper riders using them at shows and thought it was appropriate. So NO JUDGEMENT here. I hope you all can learn from this and apply the “know better, do better” philosophy going forward 🥰

Have a strong horse and considering a stronger bit? Want to move down to something less harsh? I can help! Reach out for a consultation! 💻

10/13/2025

It’s all in the details 💖

📸 courtesy of .june.photography

10/10/2025

BIT LIFTER

This is a leather strap that connects each side of the bit and runs over the nose, secured by a flash attachment. Some even believe this was the original intent of the flash noseband attachment 🤔

It is marketed to help horses with sensitive mouths that object to being bitted and those that frequently get their tongue over the bit 😣
It lifts the cheek pieces of the bit upwards and transfers some of the force from the reins to the horse’s nose. The degree to which it does this depends on the mouthpiece and how tightly the bit lifter is adjusted ⬆️

WHAT DOES IT DO❔
▪️By changing the working angle of the bit, a jointed mouthpiece will rotate further forward. Some can even become over-rotated 🔄
▪️ Instead of collapsing down onto the lower jaw (tongue and bars) it will collapse inward at the corners of the lips, which can cause damage (ulceration/laceration/scarring) 👄
A solid mouthpiece will not have this effect.
▪️Applying force to the nose (in addition to the bit) may encourage a false frame (tucked in nose) or may dull the horse to nose pressure. 👃
▪️Raising the bit in the mouth may help prevent the horse from getting their tongue over the bit. However, it will not address the problem (why they are doing this) and will not encourage the horse to seek positive contact with the bit. 😕

I cannot say this is a bad “gadget”, as there are some uses where it may be appropriate. For sensitive horses transitioning from bitless to a snaffle, for example, or for cart horses that prefer some tongue relief from a Mullen/straight bar driving bit 👅

As with any “gadget”, it should be used with caution, intention, and only short-term for a specific goal 👩‍🏫

I will say that if you are considering using one, simply changing your bit/bridle setup to something that is more suitable to your specific horse will surely negate the need for a bit lifter. That’s where I come in! 🙋🏼‍♀️
Reach out to book a consultation in-person or virtually 💻

10/09/2025

The late Dr Robert Cook explains how bit use harms horses’ welfare and performance, calling for bit-free sport to safeguard equine wellbeing.

09/25/2025

KINETON NOSEBAND

At first glance may look like a drop Noseband, but instead of encircling the lower jaw it encircles the bit. This U-shaped metal piece on each side sits between the horse’s face and the bit cheeks.

Its purpose is not to lift the bit in the mouth, but to transfer force from the reins to the nose once the mouthpiece is drawn back to a certain point. While this sounds like a “nice” thing to limit pressure on the horse’s sensitive mouth, its mechanics make the setup harsh as well as harmful.

HOW❔
When the reins are pulled…
1️⃣ A jointed mouthpiece will collapse inwards - this will press the metal of the kineton into the face 🤕
2️⃣ The bit will rise in the mouth, stretching the lips upwards - this will contact the kineton piece and begin to exert downward force on the nose ⬇️
3️⃣ The mouthpiece will apply downward force on the mouth, up to a limiting point of the Kineton - any further force from the reins will transfer to the nose (Depending on the mouthpiece type, this may also force the joints into the roof of the mouth) ⏬️

The pressures being applied inside of the mouth from this setup is what makes it a dangerous tool to use. Horse’s molars are offset and often sharp, so inward pressure (especially from rigid metal) can all too easily create ulcers and/or lacerations.

Additionally, pressure this low on the nose is known to damage cartilage, nerves, and the fragile tip of the nasal bone.

WHY❔
▪️If you have a sensitive mouthed horse and want to alleviate pressure on the mouth, first ensure the bit is suitable and comfortable for your horse (I can help with this! 🙋🏼‍♀️), take lessons to improve your contact, or consider going bitless.
▪️If you have considered using one for increased control, remember that a reactive horse will become more reactive when in pain, which this setup is bound to cause 😣
▪️If you have considered using one to help obtain a rounder frame, remember that gadgets coercing the horse to tuck in their nose will create a false frame which has a handful of negative short term and long term effects. Go back to basics to work on balance and self-carriage with your horse - there are no shortcuts! 💪🏻

09/11/2025

SPADE BIT

This bit is rich in history and one I find very interesting. I went over this in greater detail on my “What’s That Wednesday” Instagram story series yesterday and unfortunately I don’t have enough space to write it all down on one post, so I will make a blog post about it soon!
Until then, a brief overview:

The pictured bit is a traditional Spade, used by the vaquero which was adopted in western horsemanship for a time. Horses are fully trained in a bosal (jaquima = Hackamore) before they are ever introduced to a bit. And when they are introduced to a bit it takes over a year before the bit is used primarily❕The horse is trained to respond from the slightest shift in weight of the rider and featherweight touch of the reins. Their philosophy is the harder you pull, the more resistance you will get, and the more dull they will become. So both the bosal and the spade bit are not to be pulled on 🪶

Every component of this bit is designed with a clear intention and purpose, Primarily to encourage the horse to hold/carry the bit and do so with a vertical head carriage. Because of the weight and precise balance of the bit, it should sit at “neutral” in the mouth when the horse is in this working frame ↕️

The bit comes with bridle chains which connect the shanks to the reins. The reins are also very specific - braided rawhide with knots on the first 18” to counter-balance the weight of the bridle chains⛓️

Every part of this setup is focused on balance and pre-signal, so that the smallest touch or shift in the reins will have a clear signal to the horse, keeping the horse soft, alert, and sensitive💡

This looks like a lot of hardware in the mouth, and it is! But each component has a purpose and, as said, only for use on a specially trained horse🐴

Because I have so much admiration for vaquero horsemanship and their art of training a Hackamore horse and bridle horse, you will not hear me hate on this bit (even though it is not ideal in an anatomical sense). That said, these are extremely rare to find made correctly today, even the fancy custom ones. These go for $1,000+! 💰

08/10/2025

Hi everyone! Just letting you all know I am shutting down for the month of August as I’m off to get married! 👰🏼

I’ll be back with regular leatherwork, consultations, and content in September. Thanks for everyone’s understanding!

08/07/2025

ELEVATOR BIT

These come in many shapes and sizes, but these are defined as a leverage bit with fixed cheeks and equal length purchase (part above mouthpiece that connects to bridle) and shank (part below mouthpiece that the reins connect to).

I explained in a lot more detail on my Instagram story yesterday how these work - and will do my best to summarize below!

While the first photo looks scary (and it is), most elevators seen today are much smaller (see second photo).
These are different from a gag and a Pelham, although some styles look convincing.
Mechanically you can think of them like a see-saw (see last photo); force from the reins + resisting force from bridle = total force applied to the mouth.

These are similar to a gag bit in that they apply conflicting “head up” (stretch lips upward) and “head down” (poll pressure) signals to the horse, and are also at risk for over-rotation which makes for a painful mouthpiece.

Unlike a Pelham, the lever system on an elevator is 1:1 and these are not used with a curb chain.

As with any leverage bit, the longer the shanks, the greater the mechanical advantage. Longer shanks = considerably less effort needed from the reins to apply the same forces on the horse.
Unless the rider has light-as-a-feather hands, this will result in harsher than intended forces upon the horse (well, we hope it isn’t intended!).

Because of this, and the conflicting signals it sends the horse, I could never recommend this bit for use. The only clear signal this can send to the horse is pain - which unfortunately is interpreted by some as submission and lightness.

Why these are called elevators I will never know… clever marketing implies they help lift and balance the horse, but these apply more downward forces than a gag! 🤷🏼‍♀️

Have a strong or heavy horse in the contact? Reach out for a consultation - in most cases the core of the problem is training/fitness related, but training can be supported with a bit that suits your horse’s anatomy - the latter is where a bit fitter can help! Reach out to book a consultation in-person or virtually - I’d love to help! 🙋🏼‍♀️ 💻

Gray Horse Leatherworks

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