02/07/2026
How Community-Led Development in South Los Angeles Helped Launch an Award-Winning Chef and a 25 Year Legacy
A recent episode of Marketplace highlighted a story that many of us in South Los Angeles have witnessed for years. When community development is done with intention, patience and deep local partnership, it creates the conditions for extraordinary outcomes.
The story featured chef Gilberto Cetina Jr. of Holbox, Mercado La Paloma and Esperanza Community Housing Corporation. Together, they illustrate what 25 years of sustained, community-centered economic development can make possible.
From its inception, Esperanza envisioned the Mercado not simply as a food hall, but as an economic engine and cultural gathering space. A place where aspiring entrepreneurs could test ideas, refine their craft and build loyal followings within their own community before the broader world took notice.
That is precisely the pathway that chef Gilberto Cetina Jr. followed.
What began as work connected to his family’s culinary traditions inside the Mercado evolved into Holbox, now internationally recognized and honored by the Michelin Guide. His success did not happen in isolation. It grew out of an ecosystem intentionally designed to lower barriers for small business ownership, provide affordable space, and surround entrepreneurs with community support.
The Marketplace feature makes clear that this is not only a culinary story. It is an
economic development story.
It demonstrates that when nonprofits invest in physical spaces that prioritize local ownership, cultural authenticity and accessibility, they create launchpads for opportunity. They keep economic activity rooted in the neighborhood. They create jobs. They build pride. They help local talent reach global recognition without leaving the community behind.
For 25 years, Mercado La Paloma has quietly done this work. Supporting dozens of small businesses. Hosting artists and community events. Providing space for nonprofits. Acting as a daily gathering place where culture, commerce and community meet.
Seeing this model recognized on a national platform affirms something many of us already know. Community-driven development works. It changes lives. It changes neighborhoods. And sometimes, it helps launch an award-winning chef whose journey began in a public market in South Los Angeles.
Gilberto Cetina has been nominated for three James Beard awards, and his restaurant Holbox has a Michelin star, among other culinary recognitions.
