Hooper's Beta

Hooper's Beta Free 1-hour Training-for-Climbing guide: https://youtu.be/Iy8wi_u5oFI
San Diego Rock Climbing Training and Physical Therapy! My name Jason Hooper.

I am a Doctor of Physical Therapy and an avid rock climber. I first discovered rock climbing when I was in PT school, and it quickly became a huge part of my life. The intricacies of climbing paralleled my love of the human body's capabilities and biomechanics. Shortly into my career as a physical therapist, I began to blend these two passions, and started working with rock climbers. I found I lov

ed working with such a great population, who wants to learn and understand their injury, and how to get back to the sport they love, and here we are today. Emile and I started Hooper's Beta for rock climbers to be able to seek medical treatment and advice from someone who can relate; from someone who is as passionate as they are about climbing, and from someone who understand the intricacies that climbing presents. My goal is to provide excellent, individualized treatments and exercise programs, in addition to advanced techniques to assist healing. I want to educate climbers on how to take care of their body and provide the tools to keep climbing, to keep getting stronger, and to keep getting out to climb rocks.

04/27/2026

Is this the secret to unlocking pro-level finger strength? 🤫

So many people seem to be talking about a ‘new’ grip training style, the ‘Talon Grip’ (flexed DIP) and the ‘Recruitment Pull’ (intention-based crimp).

Why? Because traditional hangboarding can hide the Skin Friction “Trap”, where you rely on bunched-up skin instead of maximally activating your FDP muscle (sidenote: this is not always a bad thing, even for finger training).

If you can hang huge weight on a 20mm edge but feel weak on smaller crimps, you may need this! We break down the pros, cons, and give you two exact protocols to implement it into your own training.

Watch the full video (link in story and description) for the complete breakdown and protocols!

04/06/2026

Missing holds, unbalanced body position, bad timing… Dan presents 3 techniques to shift your perspective on how you approach taking holds, which can help anyone from beginner to advanced dramatically improve their accuracy and precision.

Link to full video in bio and story!

When you can’t find what you need, make it yourself! Our adjustable, padded pulley splints are finally available on our ...
03/23/2026

When you can’t find what you need, make it yourself! Our adjustable, padded pulley splints are finally available on our webstore. We’re also giving away all the files for free.

Links in bio or go to:
Splints: hoopersbeta.com/store/p/pulley-splint
Free STL Files: hoopersbeta.com/store/p/pulley-splint-files

03/23/2026

Time for an update ✨ Link in bio and story.

The A2 pulley is not only the most commonly injured pulley in climbers, it’s the most common type of finger injury in climbers.

Years ago we created an in-depth guide for A2 pulley injury recovery, but now it’s time for an update!

This new guide contains a multitude of improvements, including:
👉Changes to the recovery exercises
👉New differential assessment tools
👉A fun demonstration to illustrate why crimping causes A2 injuries
👉More scientific research references and citations
👉And a brand new guide on how to integrate climbing throughout your recovery

You’ll learn everything you need to know about A2 injuries from identifying the symptoms all the way to getting back on the wall pain-free.

And don’t forget, if you don’t like the idea of DIYing your recovery, you can always use our super affordable Recovery Blueprints, which are pre-built recovery programs made specifically for climbers.

As always, if you prefer reading to watching a video, see the full written version on our website at hoopersbeta.com/library.

And if you appreciate the effort we put into making free quality content for climbers, consider purchasing from our affiliate links or our very own webstore at hoopersbeta.com/store.

02/11/2026

Finally an edge that fits my fingers. 30mm of vertical adjustment per finger ➡️ huge capacity for finding your personal ideal setting.

After months of testing and prototyping, the ModEdge is finally ready for prime time.

Link in bio or hoopersbeta.com/store/p/modedge

02/09/2026

Link to the full video in our story and bio!

01/26/2026

💪 LATERAL ELBOW PAIN (aka tennis elbow aka lateral epicondylitis aka elbow tendinitis aka elbow tendinopathy)

😳 Contrary to popular belief, it’s not always a tendon issue!

In this video we cover what causes lateral elbow pain in climbers and a detailed guide to fixing it.

In about 26 minutes, you’ll learn everything you need to know about this issue and why you haven’t been able to get rid of it.

Link to the full video in our story and bio!

12/29/2025

⁉️ “Why do I keep swinging off even though I’m staying tight to the wall with hips in?”

“Why does my body tension suck even though I’m doing the ‘vacuum style’?”

“Why does my feet keep coming off on overhangs even though the holds are good?”

✅ Sometimes the technique we’re taught as a beginner (hips in, stay tight, etc.) ends up working against us when we become more experienced.

🔗 link to full video in our story and bio

12/22/2025

Block pulls, arc training, running, overcoming isometrics, frictionless finger trainers, pro climber coaches…

🥊💥 Today, we FIGHT. Jk we actually agree on some things.

I’m this episode, pro climber / coach Dan Beall and I discuss the most overrated and underrated advice currently circulating around the climbing sphere.

It’s Pro Climber vs PT! And Hype vs Reality!

Link to the full video in our story and bio!

12/08/2025

‼️ Why do so many people struggle to get rid of their medial elbow pain?

Because:
👉 It isn’t always just one thing (“tendinitis”)
👉 They don’t know where to start
👉 They don’t address ALL the causes

🔬 In fact, I even helped write a paper about the common misdiagnosis of medial elbow pain (PMID: 39514725).

It doesn’t have to be this way. You CAN defeat medial elbow pain with a little education and a smart approach.

🙋‍♂️To help with that, we put a full comprehensive protocol into a YouTube video that will give you all the tools you need to recover.

👀 Search “Hooper’s Beta Medial Elbow Pain” on YouTube or use the link in our bio/story.

If you want a more guided approach, we also made an affordable, complete elbow recovery program in a mobile app: hoopersbeta.com/RecoveryBlueprint

Scientists agree memes are the best educational medium 😉 which is why we made sure to put several in our latest YouTube ...
11/12/2025

Scientists agree memes are the best educational medium 😉 which is why we made sure to put several in our latest YouTube video (link in bio and story) — 180 Days Testing Changed Our Opinions on Finger Training Devices.
👉 What’s your favorite climbing meme?

11/10/2025

🖐️‼️ Top 5 Lessons from 180 Days of Finger Training Device Testing

👉 Here are a few things you should know before buying a new edge / finger trainer.

🤔 Some of these lessons surprised us, and ended up changing the devices we use for our own training.

🔗 Link to full YouTube video in our bio and story.

We’ve also just released our new training device, the user-adjustable ModEdge, on our store: hoopersbeta.com/store

Address

1210 Keystone Way, Suite C
Vista, CA
92081

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