17/10/2025
Camino Finisterre – Days 5 & 6
Day 5 was one of those typical Camino rainy days — rain from start to finish! We set off determined but soggy was going to be the name of the day. Making our way toward the village of Cee (or Sey, as it’s pronounced), which lies quite close to Finisterre. There’s not much to report when you’re walking in rain all day — no stopping for photos or long breaks, just keeping your head down and pressing on. The path had a few ups and downs, but mostly it was a day of endurance rather than sightseeing.
When we finally arrived in Cee, we were hoping to visit the local church, but it was closed, so we headed straight for our accommodation. The rest of the afternoon was spent drying out clothes, shoes, and backpacks — a shared struggle among many pilgrims that day. In the common room, we met others doing exactly the same, laughing and grumbling about the rain while hanging socks over heaters and radiators. By evening, the skies cleared, the little bars around the square opened, and everyone seemed to emerge again — cheerful, dry, and ready for dinner. It turned into a surprisingly lovely evening after all.
We went to bed early, knowing that the next day would be our last day on the Camino Finisterre.😢
Day 6 began before sunrise. We decided once again to walk before breakfast, eager to reach the “end of the world.” The road out of Cee winds uphill through quiet villages and soon leads to San Roque, where you catch your first glimpse of Finisterre in the distance. That moment was emotional — the sea shimmering below, the horizon wide. Although I’d been to Finisterre once before by bus after my first Camino, there’s truly nothing like walking there. The feeling is indescribable — something stirs deeply in your heart as you see that final point, much like our own Cape Point back home.
As we descended, the sea came closer and the beaches appeared, dotted with pilgrims braving the cold Atlantic waters for a traditional foot dip. We met a young American named CJ, walking with his mother. They’d just completed the Camino Francés and decided to finish their journey at Finisterre. He was delighted to meet pilgrims from South Africa — surprised, as so many are, to learn how many of us walk the Camino. I gave him one of my friend Andy’s handmade beadwork backpack charms, a little South African keepsake. He was so moved to receive it on his final day — a fitting Camino moment.
We stopped by the first beach soon after for our own breakfast. Thete are three rituals at Finisterre - putting your feet in the ocean, watching the sunset, and reflecting on your journey.
As we continued, the path became busier — suddenly there were pilgrims everywhere, including a South African woman from Stellenbosch, Annchen, walking with two Irish companions. We chatted for a bit and then continued along the final stage. True to form, the last day brought everything the Camino has to offer — steep uphills and downhills, forest paths, river crossings, ocean views, and birdsong echoing through the trees. It felt like walking through a summary of the entire pilgrimage in one day.
The final three kilometres run alongside the beach — some pilgrims walk along the sand, but we chose the paved path, watching the waves crash beside us. Before long, we were in Finisterre — a small town, but with immense meaning.
We stayed two nights in Finisterra. We will make the symbolic final 3 km walk up to the lighthouse tomorrow — the true end of the world. Sitting quietly on the rocks at the top, we let it all sink in — not just the Camino Finisterre, but the entire journey. A time to breathe, to give thanks, and to simply be.
