02/03/2026
Second try for this reel with now non-racist captions - thanks Instagram š
If youāre carrying a bit of a ni**le in your finger when you warm up you need to isolate it for two reasons.
1 - To see how it is and inform your choices for that session
2 - To recruit it fully so it can look after itself better
Itās very common for me to see two hands that can pull the same amount. But if you isolate the injured finger and compare it to the other side they can often be 50% different.
A 4 finger pull canāt be relied upon to tell you the truth.
The body is fantastic at working around and protecting things. That can be great, but there comes a time when we need to isolate and work the finger on its own.
By testing and recruiting it like this you get a much better picture of how it actually is before you climb. You donāt want to end up on a two finger pocket way above your last bolt /gear and suddenly discover it doesnāt like that.
Warm up well first and then isolate it in open, half crimp and crimp (if you think youāre going to use those grips on your climb).
Iād recommend giving it a little boost/test before each climb too
As ever if youāre not sure get it checked out by your trusted medical provider - not all finger injuries are pulley injuries but even if it is they need a proper rehab, not just rest until it doesnāt hurt anymore.